Exploring Capri’s walking trails, even out of season when the island is resting and catching its breath after the summer onslaught of holidaymakers from around the world, you can understand why this tiny piece of land, reefs and sea, has grown to become such a powerful symbol of worldliness and the Italian good life.
Walking down form the summit of Monte Solaro showcases some of the most beautiful views of Capri. Beyond the trees and pastures, there are stunning glimpses of the island’s bays and beyond that, the rest of Campania on the horizon. Two distinct towns, Capri and Anacapri, break up the rugged hillside and the angular geometry of the rocks.
On the way down it is worth stopping at the hermitage of Cetrella, built by Carthusian monks in the 14th century, on a natural viewpoint where the panoramic vista is second only to that of the famous sea stacks, some 600 metres below. Fortunately, the chairlift from Anacapri will take you to the top of the mountain in less than twelve minutes. Near the summit station you’ll find the Migliera: a path that follows part of the route of an old Roman road that ends at the precipitous viewpoint of Tuono, overlooking the lighthouse at Punta Carena, a sight is an absolute wonder.
From here a scenic trail follows the coast westwards to Punta dell’Arcera. This is the Sentiero dei Fortini (path of Fortini), which owes its name to fortifications built during the Saracen era, later used by both the British and the French during the Napoleonic Wars. The route continues to the Grotta Azzurra, the Blue Grotto, possibly the best-known and most visited site on the island, apart from perhaps the famous Piazza Umberto I, or la Piazzetta. Travelling there by boat you enter a miraculous realm of blue reflections and echoes of the sea.
If you opt instead to walk down to the town, reaching the port will take you at least three quarters of an hour, heading steeply downhill past cacti and private villas hidden in the vegetation, with the scent of jasmine in the air and sailing boats on the horizon.
Some will tell you that the island already feels like the perfect paradise, a dream holiday destination like no other. But Capri continually looks for ways to diversify and widen its appeal in order to lengthen its tourist season. In the summer months, visitors never fail to show up, but in spring and autumn the businesses on the island struggle to stay afloat. Wise planning has encouraged a growth in arts and culture, transforming Capri for certain periods of the year into an open-air artists’ studio, rather than simply an island for shopping, swimming and nightlife.
This was the reason the Capri Foundation was established, in 2009, in the halls of the historic Hotel Quisisana (pictured). The foundation is a cultural and artistic concept that brings together local entrepreneurs, regional art institutions, artists, and private and public figures from the two island communities. Its aim to safeguard and promote the cultural and artistic heritage of the area.
The Foundation is a revolution for Capri as it sought to re-brand itself with a ‘glocal’ (think global, act local) image – positively promoting its local values of art, culture and territory in harmony with the decidedly global modern reality. The results have included shows, exhibitions and events that primarily involve the people of Capri and holidaymakers, however aim to express and underline, through a global art construct, the uniqueness of this tiny scrap of Campania.
In recent summers, for example, those who visited Capri would have encountered dancers among the archaeological ruins of Damecuta and teams of sculptors, painters and international artists on walkabout through the schools and forests of the island. There have been market stalls among the flowers, and poets in the streets. Trend watchers now sit in the square studying the overseas holidaymakers, while choreographers in search of inspiration walk along the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. In short, Capri’s transformation now features a melting pot of international art that has rebooted the island’s image and stretched holiday seasons.
This new image stands up well, despite fierce competition from other Italian destinations. But thanks to its elegant aura and its natural wonders, Capri remains unique. And there’s just so much to see.
Firstly, everywhere you turn, views of vast blue openness of the Mediterranean and in the comparative foreground Capri’s famous ‘faraglioni’ sea stacks: Stella, Mezzo and Scopolo. All three compact monoliths are inhabited by a reptile found nowhere else: the Blue Lizard. It has skin painted in a striking dark inky shade of azure blue to cleverly camouflaged it within the Mediterranean seascape. The faraglioni are such imposing giants that when you get up close you may feel a strong sense of emotion – a little like first witnessing in person the lineup of skyscrapers of Manhattan.
If you can tear yourself away from these towering sea spikes, follow the cliff path that clings to the east coast to find the rough and lonely soul of the island, because on Capri, every corner is different. There is rural Capri, with its orchards, citrus groves, vineyards and villages with narrow, winding streets. There is Capri town with its elegant boutiques, fine dining and grand hotels. There are the rugged and rough Capri of crags and rocks, and the Capri of the sea, dotted with caves, superb cliffs and inaccessible coves. There is shy Capri, hidden in its country villas, and there is high society Capri which gathers every night for a drink on the Piazzetta.
There’s a Capri for everyone.
STAY: Grand Hotel Quisisana
For huge suites featuring chandeliers, high ceilings, decoratively tiled floors, gold and brass fittings and furnishings and not to mention those impossibly beautiful private balcony sea views.
Via Camerelle, Capri
Tel. +39 081 8370788
www.quisisana.com
STAY: J.K. place Capri
For the ultimate in private getaway, ‘movie star chic’ accommodation.
Via Provinciale Marina Grande, Capri
Tel.+39-0818384001
www.jkcapri.com
EAT: Rendez-Vous (at the Grand Hotel Quisisana)
For classic European Michelin-star awarded dishes, a fine wine list and romantic candle-lit elegant interiors.
Via Camerelle, Capri
Tel. +39 081 8370788
www.quisisana.com
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