His culinary passions may not stray far from his Veneto routes, but chef Roi Rigoni of Kiewa Valley food institution Roi’s, with his partner in life (and crime) Sue White, have together shifted their well-known earthy and robust Northern Italian flavours towards a more modern, fragrant bent.
Not just a marvel of good food and wine, this High Country destination restaurant is an absolute eye-popper. Warmly coloured interiors are decorated with decades of Sue’s love and lust – a unique collection of cool and quirky vintage objects. Micky and Minnie Mouse ornaments of the ’60s and a huge Pez dispenser collection, perhaps in honour of Jerry Seinfeld, are mixed with vintage wine and digestif bottles from around the globe. An assortment of mood lighting fills the space: you’ll see everything from a chain of coloured silk party globes or kitschy cool retro lamps to a dimly glowing plastic pineapple. Overhead a group of Saudi pendants set with bedazzling gem stones are as at home as they might have been in Riyadh. Step aside, John Malkovich: among the ruby silk table cloths and the obligatory shots of Amaro Montenegro, dining here is like taking a seat deep inside Sue’s core personality.
Hot Plate number one is Roi’s rolled lamb shoulder stuffed with swiss brown, enoki, field and shiitake mushrooms, served atop piping hot, luxuriously silk-textured tagliolini (thin noodle style pasta). Garnished with mushroom slices, a light jus and a bouquet garni of mint, oregano and chives, the first impression is of an overwhelmingly beautiful and intense fragrance – its impact striking. The combination of jus, mushrooms, and the nicely seasoned pasta (loads of black pepper), focuses the flavour profile towards a long-lasting umami sensation: think pleasantly meaty, brothy, salty and rich. The lamb too takes on this depth with the infused mushrooms and herbs, fragrant within the meat. The overall experience is surprisingly joyous and fulfilling.
Roi and Sue’s wine list includes a carefully selected list of Alpine, Kiewa and King Valley gems as well as world stars such as the 2012 McLaren Vale Mollydooker Carnival of Love Shiraz – a label of love, right Sue? I opt for the Pizzini 2012 Arneis with its floral and intense nose accented with cumquats and showing great depth of flavour. The wine’s citrus side proves a good match to the trio sampler of fresh fruit ice creams: blood plum, raspberry and apple. Topped with softly roasted almond slivers, the latter is like stealing a midnight snack of Gran’s fresh-baked apple pie right from the Kelvinator, its flavours soft and fresh, the texture creamy and slightly iced.
But the King of all Hot Plates award has to go to Roi and Sue’s epic joint creation: the visually-convincing and hard-hitting double macchiato-strength cappuccino ice cream. Stylishly fashioned in its very own Genovese café cup, topped with creamy mascarpone and dustings of chocolate: take one dip into this masterful delight to be amazed at how its ultra pure silk-laden molten lava texture flows from your spoon. Made from premium espresso coffee and sure to keep your eyes wide open late into the night, it’s not for the faint of heart. It’s thick, it’s generous; it’s coffee ice-cream like you could never imagine.
Although we’re sure it is not entirely intentional, dining at Roi’s feels highly romantic. The service is friendly, understated perfection and the atmosphere warm and comforting. Music plays an important part, with French covers band Nouvelle Vague providing a calming, soft samba influence while Lana Del Rey’s twilight mood swings groove to a beat driven by the sway of candlelight. The overall package, including more Hot Plates to choose from (did we say pork chop?) is pretty hard to ignore. Can we lick the plate now?
Opening hours: Thurs-Sun from 6.30pm;
take-away pasta available.
177 Kiewa Valley Highway, Tawonga, Victoria
Tel 03 5754 4495
www.facebook.com/RoisRestaurant
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